WEEK 7-8 The Home Stretch

Greece is only 1000ks from Egypt, across the Mediterranean Sea but, much like our experience from going from South Africa to East Africa, you’d swear you were on a different planet. Calm, clean, we don’t stick out like sore thumbs causing locals to stare at us and cars actually stay in their lanes, use turn signals and we only heard one horn honk in the first 30 minutes. Those were the immediate things we noticed upon arrival in Athens aside from the fact that the jeans we haven’t worn in 7 weeks are tighter (so much for the African deprivation diet) and that our tan is going to fade real fast due to the fact that it’s unseasonably cold with intermittent rain showers. Call it preparation for the return to Vancouver weather I guess.

Athens is nestled in a basin surrounded by mountains, has a population of 4 million and thanks to the 2004 Olympics, transformed itself from a chaotic concrete metropolis to organized chaos, whose renaissance included a new airport, metro, more open green spaces, urban renewal of run down areas, and apparently is barely recognizable since cars were banished from the historic center creating Europe’s longest pedestrian promenade through an archaeological park. Happily, the hotel we stayed at the day we arrived was right in the tourist magnet area called ‘The Plaka’, Athens’ stone paved old quarter right below the Acropolis that is full of taverns, café’s, traditional stores mixed with modern boutiques and many significant monuments. As nice as it may appear, they’re still behind the times environmentally speaking, there’s no such thing a non smoker, everyone smokes regardless the activity or location. But apparently in Sept 2010 they will be joining the rest of Europe in a public ban, which will undoubtedly wreak havoc on their temperaments and lifestyle.

One thing that really stands out when strolling the streets is the abundance of stray cats and dogs. No animal control for these furry friends, they are technically homeless, but are fed in the streets by the residents of the neighbourhood they roam. Friendly as any well behaved pet, but they too underwent a transformation for the 04 Olympics. Fearing the tourists may be intimidated by the males’ natural tendency to show aggression at times, what the city did during the games was round up all the stray dogs, about 150,000, sterilized them and let them loose afterwards. And they are everywhere, outside restaurants, in squares, walking down a city street, even up at the Acropolis and other historical sites. After a scratch and a pat you’d swear they were going to follow you home, but once at the edge of their territory they stop and turn around.

Thankfully, for the last time we found ourselves back on a tour bus with a dozen others (luxury version this time) to spend 4 days on a 600kms mini tour of Greece. It was amazingly beautiful scenery with topography that reminded us very much of the West Coast with its 400 islands and snow capped mountainous ranges. To the far west coast over the Corinth canal onto the Peloponnese Peninsula, we saw the ancient Theatre of Epidauros that was built into a hillside at the end of the 4th century BC and is still used for special events because of its remarkable acoustics. But, having just spent 10 days touring the temples and ruins of Egypt that were also influenced by both Greeks and Romans, Roy and I had become quite adept at identifying individual construction styles and found ourselves totally disinterested in seeing yet another monument or historical site. However, the trip to Olympia and visit to the birth place of the Olympic Games, really perked our waning interest. Yeah, familiar construction styles we’d already seen in Egypt, but the sheer size of the venue, the skeletal remains of the athlete buildings, the sanctuary of Olympian Zeus, the still standing archway leading to the stadium’s dirt playing field where we laid on the grassy hillside speckled with poppies, the very same place thousands of ancient Greeks stood watching the games below. It really had us stop and imagine what it would have been like during those times.

To the northeast over the Corinthian Gulf back onto the mainland we drove 200 ks to yet another amazing place, Meteora. Wow, among striking scenery, perched on top of monolithic rocks which seem to be suspended in mid-air, stand ageless Monasteries one of which was where the Bond movie-For Your Eyes Only, was filmed. The terrain through the north is very mountainous with valleys of sage colored olive tree plantations - 2 million trees, 49 varieties that live 400 years.

Heading back south to the Corinthian Gulf is Delphi, a really quaint two street hillside town that overlooks the gulf. The ancient Greeks regarded Delphi as the ‘navel’ of the world because that is where two eagles met, after being released by Zeus at opposite ends of the earth. The spot is marked with cone-head type half dome and is near the Sanctuary of Apollo, where 4th century BC pilgrams once came seeking the wisdom of Apollo’s oracle, thought to be the mouthpiece of the god.

Back in Athens, the next 6 days were on our time. Thankfully no more tours!! The condo we rented wasn’t quite how it was depicted when I booked it online, but it was in a quiet area with all the amenities, bus, metro and within walking distance to the Acropolis and other sights. Our walk up to the Acropolis and Parthenon was really anticlimactic, partially due to our lack of enthusiasm and the fact that the antiquities are shrouded in scaffolds because of ongoing restoration. But the panoramic views of the city were awesome, with all the white washed buildings no higher than 10 stories, retail on street level and residential above.

One beautiful, warm and sunny day we decided to try out the metro system to go to the port city of Piraeus in the southwest, which is basically extension of Athens. From our condo it would have required two metro transfers to get to the right line and fearing we might get lost in transit, we decided to walk the half hour to catch it down line instead. Athens is not built on a grid system and although street names are marked in both Greek and English letters it’s quite easy to get twisted around, but with trusty map in hand, winding up and down and around the streets we finally found the station only to see a sign posted that it was shut down for repairs. Deciding to go by bus instead, from there it was quite the ordeal and a comedy of errors to find the right bus since we didn’t have a route schedule and very few people speak English. But, between another 40 minute walk to the bus stop, sitting for ½ hour and letting two #40 buses pass by because the sign showed it was going to Athens from Piraeus not the other way around, then getting on the third bus after confirming it was going to Piraeus even though the sign said otherwise, then only to get off two stops later because Roy left his jacket behind, run back to the bus stop (the jacket was still there), wait another 15 minutes for the fourth #40 bus, only then where we finally on our way to Piraeus.

But, not knowing where to get off we kinda over shot the main drag and had to hike back to where Roy thought he saw some action. And action there was, an entire street transformed into a Saturday open market where you could buy anything from undies to house wares to fresh fish and produce. Weaving through the hoards of people we head towards the water and find a restaurant for a much needed food and beverage break considering we should have been there for lunch and it was now 3:30. Ordering food and getting what you want has generally been hit or miss because of the lack of English. And one thing we discovered is the lack of anything other than Greek food restaurants. Aside from Pizza Hut or KFC, its only Greek served with dreaded French fries yet again. Definitely a global staple we discovered. Our last night we decided to try something different and went to look for an Indian restaurant recommended in a guide book, but after 2 hours of wandering in a less than desirable area to no avail, Greek it was once again!

All in all our time in Greece was really nice and very low key, a great way to unwind and prepare for the return to the rat race after 8 weeks. Definitely a place we’d love to go back to – we figure fall is the best time, not so hot and the hoards of summer tourists will be gone as well. Besides, there are 400 islands out there waiting to be explored and perhaps a business oppportunity of selling nictotine patches to the masses!

Next stop: 9 hours in Amsterdam