We managed the 5:20 am wake up call by Malu, but it sure is hard crawling out of a tent at that time, or any time for that matter! After a light breakfast we took off for the Norongoro Crater in two separate 4x4s because only half of us were continuing on to the overnight excursion in the Serengeti after the morning game drive. Our campsite was just on the outside of the park reserve so we got there by 7 am as planned. It was an awesome drive winding up the side of the lush volcano then stopping at a view point to look down into the crater before our descent. Norongoro Crater is the world's largest and oldest caldron, 20k across, has a lake and is host to all game except giraffes because there aren't any acacia trees to eat. Upon entering the crater we were amazed at the amount of traffic there! There had to have been over a hundred pop up roof 4x4s tracking back and forth over marked, potholed dirt trails, through gulleys and when you see a group all stopped at one spot (our driver calls it a 'traffic jam') you know there's some sort of action going on so you drive over to check it out as well. Because of the crater's openness it is easy to spot game, and boy they were all out in droves. Huge herds of zebras, wildebeest, gazelles, impalas, warthogs, you name it they were there. No action from the lions though, 3 cubs were doing their own playful thing while the male was sleeping in the tall grass by a creek unfazed by the cubs or the other animals. Apparently the crater lions are fat and lazy because hunting is so easy. Wildebeest are their favorite catch because they aren't the brightest of species which is why zebras like to hang around them as well!
Our 2 groups met up for a bagged lunch at a rest stop picnic area that had a large pond with hippos that were quite entertaining, especially an active little baby. Afterwards we went our separate ways, they to stay in the crater longer before heading back to camp outside of Arusha, and the 6 to continue our way through to the opposite side of the crater for the ascent, and drive towards the Serengeti for 2 nights. Once again the drive out of the crater was magnificent, but this time in particular because once you reached the top of the rim, on one side was the drop off back into the crater and on the other the drop off into the arid, desert-like Serengeti Plains.
We were to spend the night at a campsite in the Seronata area of the Serengeti National Park and wanted to be there before 6 to ensure we got a good spot before other safari trucks piled in. Once inside the park we game drove for 2 hours heading towards the campsite along vast open very bumpy dirt trails with so many lefts, rights, junctions and switchbacks that no one could ever find their way out of the scrub brush maze should they be stranded. In comparison to the crater, it was pretty quiet in the Serengeti, no large herds of anything, just the occasional lone animal here and there which was quite a surprise. Although we did come across a pair of lions basking the sun high up on a rock bed, but once again, totally disinterested in their surroundings.
Campsite was basically a place to pitch a tent with some sheltered areas for cooking, no running water with hole in the ground for toilets. By dark there had to have been 10 tour groups there, so it made for a busy and hopefully safe environment for sleeping humans eager to get back out in the morning. Throughout the night I kept hearing really odd unfamiliar animal noises quite close to our tent. In the morning sure enough all around the campsite and near our tent were manure piles that were identified as belonging to buffalo. It's amazing what comes out when we sleep.
We were back game driving by 7 am and unlike yesterday, the area we went to was very much alive. We saw a Cheetah posing for us on a high mound and when we joined a "traffic jam" we focused in on a leopard sleeping in a tree. We were beginning to think that all the cats do is sleep or lounge around when went to join another traffic jam, and found a whole pride, spread out on the right of us with one female watching and slinking towards a herd of zebras on our left. She crossed the road behind us and walked right along side the row of vehicles while we, along with 2 cubs sitting and watching from the sidelines, waited intently for her to make her move.
Then quite suddenly the zebras changed their direction and just when we thought the action was over, the lion changed her interest onto a dozen or so warthogs who were coming right towards her. Slinking closer and closer when suddenly, a chase took place with warthogs scattering everywhere and the lion zeroed in on a baby. Game over for the little one we thought, but amazingly enough, the incredibly fast side to side darting of the warthog was no match for the lion, whose short spurt stamina tuckered out.
Grinning from ear to ear, we left the Serengeti after lunch and headed out on the 5 hour bouncy drive back to the campsite near Arusha to join up with the rest of the group. We arrived with some time to spare before dinner, so after pitching our tent for the last time, one of the girls was beckoning Roy to join in on the head shaving that was going on. Well before I knew it Roy said, "why the heck not, it'll grow back before we get back home" and off he went! Within 5 minutes there he was looking like a cue ball just like the girl who egged him on.
While we were away for 2 nights in the crater and Serengeti, those who stayed behind had discovered a disco next door just outside the campsite gate and invited us to go back with them that night. It was our last night in Tanzania before heading to Kenya where most of the group would disband, so, despite facing another early morning wake up call, we thought we'd go for it. We were quite the sight in there, Roy, myself and five 20 something girls all taking to the dance floor in a club where we were the only white people among 300 locals. In Swahili a mature woman is called "Mama" similar to our "madame" or the dreaded "mam" designation. Although I had become somewhat used to it, never more did I actually feel like a mama as when we were in that club. Like a sorority mom watching over her charges!
The 250k drive to Nairobi was once again, an absolutely horrible ride over nonexistent, unpaved or under construction roads that seem to be the norm in Tanzania. Because of the seating rotation, we got the dreaded back row, but I actually prefer it because Roy can stretch out while I lay down and doze to ward off motion sickness. We had hoped the roads would improve once we crossed over to Kenya, but no such luck, it's just the norm in Africa. The long rides with pitching and heaving are taking a toll on us and we can't wait to end the overland portion of our trip.
Our first stop in Kenya was in a south Nairobi suburb called Karen of all names, so named after Karen Blixen, of the Out of Africa book fame. Everything there is named after Karen, the hospital, mall, town, buildings and an animal refuge. But what a great westernized suburb with African presence, the first of its kind we've experienced thus far. Comfortable integration, shops, air conditioned stores, lattes, great mall, houses and buildings, very upscale in small town way. We stopped to refresh and recharge and buy more bottled water which from what we've seen throughout Africa, is an environmental disaster. There are no recycling facilities with heaps of plastic bottles everywhere from road sides, to Masai villages right through to urban areas. Beer and pop (coke, sprite and fanta orange rules) all come in worn out recycled bottles that look like they've been around for a century, but as far as plastic goes, it just litters everywhere.
After our short visit to Karen, about 15 minutes away was the campsite where Tilly the truck, and crew Malu, Moses and Cyrus end their 42 day Capetown to Nairobi journey as well as 4 others people. They will be staying there overnight whereas the remaining seven of us will change trucks in the morning and continue through to the Masai Mara and Uganda. After a teary goodbye to new friends, Roy and I and the 2 Aussie girls grab a cab to the hotel we're staying at for one night before heading out on our last overland trip in the morning. After seven days of roughing it, a hotel and pool was much appreciated. Fortunately the campsite in the Masai Mara is a raised floor grass hut over raised floor army style walk in tent with twin beds. Yipee, no more tenting pitching.
After a great night's sleep the new truck and crew arrives at our hotel to pick us up along with 8 new faces and 6 from our original group. This truck is basically doing the return trip Cape Town via the Masai Mara, where we and 2 others end, then onto Uganda for the gorilla trek where the remaining original 4 end their journey as well leaving the rest of the trip to the newcomers only. Malu had warned us the day before that if we thought the roads to Nairobi were bad, wait til we see the roads to the Masia Mara. Apparently they are much worse, more like off roading style due to never ending road construction.
At the road side lunch stop we got a chance to talk to the 20 something year old newbies, 2 Aussies, 1 Brit, 1 US and 4 Canucks and show them the ropes of communal living. The tour company is strict about not spread germs and has a standard hygiene procedure for hand and dishwashing. At meals there are two sets of 3 pans, one set for hand washing and the other for dishwashing. For hands, first pan is soap and water, second to rinse off in a water & Dettol solution (Africa is Dettol crazy), and the third pan for final rinse, followed by air drying. For dishwashing one soapy, second mix with bleach and third for final rinse followed by what is called 'flapping' the dishes to air dry before returning them to the plastic bin. Our new guide took it a step further though, every time you got off the bus, you had to spray your hands with a Dettol water mix before re-boarding. Needless to say our bodies may not have always been the cleanest but our hands were certainly germ free. Frankly, having the process in place is a good thing because the toilet facilities at stops or campsites can range from literal bush stops, to hole in the ground types with or without a toilet. This road side lunch stop was by far the worst, four side by side concrete cubicles with open fronts and a hole in the ground. Since there is no running water judging by the crappy insides (no pun) it is safe to say they are never hosed or at best shoveled out. Truly a disgusting, yet necessary experience. But that's Africa.
Malu was indeed right about the road conditions, and apparently the unfinished state has been like that for a couple of years, typically known as "African time". Granted, road improvements can take a while, but why tear up 200 ks of it all at once, why not tackle one Km at a time? Every time a vehicle approached, we'd all have to close our windows as we'd be smothered in a cloud of dusty sand. Open, close, open, close, pitch, heave that about sums up the 4 hour ride with exception to two highlights, one when we pulled over to view the amazing Rift Valley, 4200 km long that stretches from Kenya all the way to Jordon, and second, when we had a blow out that jolted us out of our seats even more.
Edging our way over to the side, we had come to a full stop right in front of a Masai settlement. Most came running to the road side to check out the action, and as we piled out the truck we had to reign in the camera happy newcomers telling them that Masai do not permit picture taking of them. Regardless, we all managed to discreetly sneak in a few snaps by pretending we were taking pictures of each other, tire changing and scenery. But one of the new people, a ballsy Aussie with a camera lens as long as my arm, decided to approach one of them and ask permission. Well it turned out that for money, they will abandon their belief system, thus starting the handing over of money in turn for picture taking. Even Roy stepped up to the plate enabling me to take a great group photo. After a half hour the tire was changed and we waved goodbye to one happy Masai tribe beaming from ear to ear with their unexpected riches.
As we turned off to the final 3ks to the campsite we were to stay at for the next 2 nights, we passed by large Masai village at which point our leader announces that a tour with unlimited pictures has been arranged for the next evening, for a dollar per person, to be followed by a traditional Masai dance show, for another dollar, right at our campsite. Hmm seems like money buys anything around here, but wow, how great is that we all thought, can't wait until tomorrow. Roy and I are totally fascinated with the Masai and their culture and are eager to learn more right from the source.
The campsite was fabulous, hot showers, real toilets, a thatched roof bar, fire pit and above all, we were off the ground and didn't have to lift a finger! This kind of camping works just fine for us. Over dinner our leader briefed us on the next day, breakfast at 6, pack a lunch and off to the Masai Mara to game drive all day. Then, I overhear one of our group mention he was going on a hot air balloon ride in the morning. We had wanted to go on one in the Serengeti but the schedule didn't allow it so I was eager to get us signed up, and that I did. Only downside (aside from the cost of $415 US each, but hey, its my birthday as well), was that it was a sunrise ride and we would be picked up at 5:15am. Ugh, another super early waking, what kind of a vacation is this anyways?
I don't sleep well when I have to depend on an alarm for fear it doesn't go off, so to get a jump start on some Zs, I headed straight to bed leaving Roy by the campfire with some others. When he joined me a short while later, he told me how he had had a great conversation with a Masai, learned a bit about their culture and tomorrow, had made arrangements to buy a lion's tooth necklace from him for $25. Masai are often hired to do 24 hr security around campsites, lurking in bushes during the night and day. This guy was on duty and obviously saw the opportunity to supplement his income at the same time!
We managed to sneak out of our tents in the pitch black trying to keep quiet so as to not wake up the others. The Masai in the bushes were somewhat helpful by shining their flashlights to help lead the way to the parking lot. After a 45 minute drive in the pitch black, the three of us arrived at the balloon launching site with 9 others also standing by. After a do's and don'ts briefing by our Brit pilot, the 12 of us pile in, 3 persons per quadrant and quietly lift off into the darkness just as the sun was rising over the "sleeping Masai" mountain range. We coasted anywhere from 3 up to 2200 feet off the ground looking for wildlife even sneaking between trees without a sound. We did however startle a bunch of elephants out of the bushes to the point that although they didn't go far, one of the 5 kept running and running long after we had passed leaving his group far behind. It was quite funny , although I did feel a twinge of guilt for scaring the poor animal considering we were the intruders.
To end the amazing hour and a half ride, we gently landed in a clearing where a long banquet table had been set for us to have a champagne breakfast. Wow, how great is that! Endless champagne, croissants, cheese, fruit and yogurt and more champagne in the middle of the Masai Mara after a hot air balloon ride on my birthday. Couldn't have been any better.
After our indulgence, we three were driven to meet up with the rest of our group who had stopped for a break at a resort called Keikbrook, and quite the resort it was. Very high end, for those who do safaris in high style unlike us bus travelers for whom the rest of the day of game driving was most displeasing. Game driving is done in an open topped 4x4 not a closed in huge army truck with no suspension. Despite the bouncing around Roy and I promptly dozed off due to the early start in conjunction with the champagne we had drank. We stopped for lunch at a ranger's station right on the edge of the Mara River, where the famed wildebeest migration from the Masai Mara in Kenya, to the Serengeti in Tanzania takes place twice a year in July and December. We stopped for about an hour, and were back on the trail, pitching and heaving for what was the worst 4 hours of all time. The last thing we wanted was to do more game driving we had had our fill of it and wished we could have been taken back to our campsite to chill instead of having to meet up with the group.
I barely survived the afternoon and we were relieved when at 5:00 we turned the corner and pulled into the Masai village for our tour. The tour guide turned out to be one of the chief's seven sons from four mothers. What we witnessed and learned was so incredible that it's a whole story in itself that I'll post later. But in a nutshell, the Masai are a primitive chauvinistic tribe who choose to retain their barbaric rituals and rites of passage, while at times crossing over into western civilization for purely self serving reasons. They live in round villages built upon dried manure with a center corral for their animals. Children are covered in flies, run around barefoot (unlike the men) and are surrounded by deplorable living conditions. Roy and I both are totally fascinated with them and eager to learn more, so much so that I'm currently reading the book "The White Masai" a true story about a Swiss woman who fell in love with a Masai while on vacation, and lived the life as we have witnessed it. Remarkable story and apparently a new movie.
At the end of the tour we were led into a section where the women had set up curio stands inside raised chicken brooding booths, to sell their wares. Their tactics make Mexican street vendors look tame to the point all I wanted was out of there! I did however buy one of their traditional blanket style wraps because I was chilled, but Roy ended up shunning the original lion tooth deal from the previous night for a better price. Along with his shaved head and African top he now wears a lions tooth around his neck. Good thing we're leaving Africa soon, lest he start wearing a loin cloth and carry a spear
Done with the tour, about a dozen Masai warriors escorted us on the 3k walk to our campsite. After our dinner, around the campfire they performed three ceremonial dances pertaining to; warrior's rite of passage, contest to win a "free" wife (the higher you jump the fewer cows you have to give) and a wedding dance. It was very entertaining and interactive to the point that we were individually singled out to participate. At the finish, the lead Masai was very quick to hold his hand out ensuring each every one of us gave him a dollar. Then before we knew it, they all quietly disappeared into the bushes where they remained unseen throughout the night.
Next morning we departed on what was our last 3 hour bumpy ride in a truck. Roy, myself and the two Aussie girls were dropped off in Narok, the halfway point to Nairobi, where we were meeting a minivan to take us to Nairobi,, while the rest of the campers headed towards Uganda. It was a sad goodbye to the 4 remaining originals who had started out as 28 people two months ago and were now the minority amongst the 8 newcomers. Although we were only with them for 10 days, we thoroughly enjoyed our time with them and will cherish the experiences we shared in our trek across East Africa.
By noon we were back at the hotel in Nairobi eager for food and a beer and to reminisce about our month in Africa. We weren't leaving for Dubai until late next night so we thought we'd tackle site seeing Nairobi in the morning and chill by the pool instead. When in foreign cities we favor taking a city tour bus which is a great way to learn about its history and such. Unfortunately, Nairobi quite surprisingly didn't have one, so all we managed to do was walk to the heart of the city to the Nairobi International Cultural Center where there is a 360 observation deck. As far as cities go, from what we saw, we quite liked Nairobi, professional attire, contemporary yet with older buildings, no modern skyscrapers and a very welcoming feel to it despite the student riot that happened earlier this year. Its been reported to have the best worldwide climate, averaging of 22C all year round with no seasonal changes whatsoever. Sounds perfect to me, including the fact that it is illegal to smoke in public throughout Kenya! Progressive in so many ways, now if they would only do something about the roads!
All in all we loved Africa and wouldn't hesitate to come back. But no more overland trips for us – next stop Dubai!
